Guerlain Joyeuse Tubereuse

Guerlain recently introduced a new addition to their L'Art et la Matiere line of fragrances, Joyeuse Tubereuse.  Guerlain describes the scent as "a freshly picked tuberose" and indeed, the initial opening has a burst of green as if from the broken stem that had been holding the flower a moment before being plucked. This green opening is fresh and creamy and reminds me a little of the opening in Jour d'Hermes. This only lasts a short time and the tuberose enters.

This tuberose is limpid and dewy. Perfumers Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk used a light touch with a note that has a reputation for scaring people away. The perfume displays the creamy aspects of tuberose but none of the indolic, skank, or camphorous notes. Like a tomcat that's gone under the knife, this tuberose is tamed and subdued of aggressiveness without losing any of the prettiness of the floral.  Notes of lily and sambac jasmine join the tuberose. Normally I find that jasmine will dominate on my skin but it stayed in the background; it was the lily I smelled. The lily and  tuberose make a very pretty combination, with the tuberose dominating.

It is around the time that the lily becomes obvious that I also began to smell vanilla. As with the tuberose, the vanilla's touch is light. It serves to slightly sweeten the perfume. I'm imagining tuberose and vanilla flavored marshmellows. The vanilla is not really gourmand but just adds a nice softness to the tuberose. At this point the perfume reminds me a little of Memo Marfa which also has vanilla and tuberose. Joyeuse Tubereuse continues for several hours with this fluffy tuberose and vanilla combo but eventually very gentle base notes of sandalwood and vetiver become present as the tuberose fades. These two notes are particularly quiet on my skin.

This perfume lasted all day but the sillage was slight. I think this would be a great perfume for those who have shied away from tuberose perfumes like Malle's Carnal Flower or Piguet's Fracas because the tuberose is too strong. This perfume is considered unisex and I realize my description may not make it sound that way but if you're a man that loves white flowers I think you would enjoy this one.  Joyeuse Tubereuse is a very nice perfume and I would happily wear it but I tend to like the tuberose perfumes that announce their presence so for now I will admire from afar.

Photo from Guerlain. Sample from Essentials Tangs Singapore.

Zoologist Perfumes Part Six: Civet

Back in January I reviewed the entire Zoologist Perfumes line. I was curious about the concept, and the cute Edwardian style drawings adorning each bottle are one of the most creative and cohesive product branding efforts I've seen in a long time. Of course the big question was, how would the perfumes smell? I went in with the expectation that somehow the animals themselves would be evoked in the scents, and how would that work? But what I found was the perfumers sought to represent the environment that the animals lived in.  Do you remember terrariums, those sealed glass containers that held mini worlds inside their glass domes, creating their own environment? These perfumes strike me as similar. They are a snapshot of a particular animal's world, sometimes in minute detail such as the surrounding plant life, what they might eat, and what smells they would encounter in their day to day life.

So why when I saw the name Civet did I think Shelley Waddington, doing her second perfume for the Zoologist line and owner/creator of EnVoyage Perfumes, would go for the obvious, a strong civet- based perfume? Of course I was wrong. So follow Ms. Waddington as she leads us into the jungle.

Let me backtrack for a minute. Living in Indonesia and Singapore, Bali was a frequent vacation spot. I got to know the island pretty well, eventually leaving the sandy shores and ocean waves to venture further inland to experience the culture and lifestyle of the Balinese people.  It doesn't take long to get away from the tourist hubbub and find the real Bali. Terraced rice fields of an impossibly vibrant green; gracefully dressed villagers celebrating a wedding, death, or special holy day; women balancing a basket of fruit on their head, walking towards the temple to leave an offering. And once you get into the hills or near one of the island's volcanoes, this sign is a frequent sight.

Kopi Luwak, Let me cut to the chase: civet cats eat coffee beans, they pass through their digestive tract where the beans are fermented but not digested, and they eventually exit the body looking something like a Payday candy bar. The feces is collected and turned into world's most expensive coffee. Strange but true. All very good and ecologically sound on the surface. The problem is that when local farmers throughout Indonesia found there was a market for civet poop they started caging the civet cats which they call luwak and feeding them exclusively coffee berries. As there is no sure fire way to know if your kopi luwak coffee has been naturally gathered or farmed it is best avoided so as to put an end to this practice.

Zoologist Perfumes Civet references happy little creatures roaming free as nature intended, crawling along the dank and moist jungle floor through the flowers and foliage, foraging off coffee berries and other plant life. Ms. Waddington and Victor Wong, founder of Zoologist Perfumes,  have captured this concept in Civet.

The perfume's opening is an opulent kaleidoscope swash of scent. Notes represented are bergamot, lemon, and orange, along with black pepper, tarragon and various spices. Reading this you would expect a strong citrus opening but in fact the spices are the star.  The citrus gives a bright warmth but is not otherwise distinctive.  I have no idea what Ms Waddington's inclusion of the spices was meant to represent, but as civets are found in Indonesia, a country which was the epicenter of the Dutch spice trade, I would like to think it's a nod to the history of the place and the crops still farmed there today.  In the higher elevations of Bali one can be wrapped in this scent of lush verdancy. I am sure it is the same in any rainforest or jungle setting. That is the initial feel I get from this perfume.

In Hummingbird, Ms. Waddington used a basketful of scent notes to create a floral nectar perfume. Here in Civet there are also many florals: carnation, frangipani, heliotrope, hyacinth, linden blossom, tuberose and ylang ylang. These join together to give the impression of a tropical setting of riotous florals, humid green plants, and a forest bed of decaying plant life enriching the soil below. This is an accurate portrayal of the actual surrounds civets would roam. I can pick out the creamy richness of the tuberose and also ylang ylang, which to my nose is has a luxuriant tropical floral smell and veers slightly powdery on my skin. The carnation is also discernible in it's more spicy form. These florals join with the spices and an emerging coffee note to make a rich brew. There is a French feel to the perfume at this point, but it is untamed and a bit wild.

There is, of course,  a civet note and this gives the perfume a vintage feel. (Synthetic civet is used). The animal musk in Civet eventually becomes more pronounced as the floral notes begin to diminish, but now the civet is encased in warm cozy labdanum and notes of vanilla. It is not sweet or gourmand, rather spicy and warming. The flowers are subdued but still quietly exist in the background. Balsamic resins and woods round out a soft fade out for this perfume after several hours of wear. It is extremely long lasting on my skin. This perfume has gone through so many transformations: a bright spicy opening, humid florals with mossy green foliage, and finally a warm spicy and resinous finish.

I am familiar with Hummingbird as well as several of  Ms. Waddington's creations for her own line. If I am presumptuous enough to judge a perfumer by her work then I would say Ms Waddington lives large and is not afraid to place bold colorful stripes on the canvas of life, or in her perfumes. Her scented fingerprints are bold and assured. The perfume Civet is no different. This riotous mixture of so many diverse notes could have been a hot mess, but instead it references a time when civet and other animal notes were common in French perfumes but updates the genre with tropical notes to give a new and unique spin. Civet is another winning addition to the Zoologist line and I can't wait to see what Mr. Wong dreams up next.

To see my other Zoologist reviews you can start here.

Top photo from www..ZoologistPerfumes.com. Perfume sample of Civet provided to me by Zoologist Perfumes.

Foxy by DSH Perfumes

Foxy is one of the newest scents by the amazingly prolific Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes. Dawn says she was inspired by the movie version of Roald Dahl's Fantastic Mr. Fox which she watched with her young son during the cold winter months of a Boulder, Colorado winter. I am not familiar with this story but evidently various note components were drawn from the everyday life of Mr. Fox.

The perfume's opening features an apple whiskey note referencing the favoured drink of the story's Farmer Bean. This note is round, rich and fruity. It is joined by a gingersnap note, reminiscent of Mrs. Bean's "famous apple gingersnap". I could swear I smell a cinnamon note but perhaps this is just a part of the whiskey/gingersnap mix as it is not listed. Amber and ambergris are the dominate notes and miraculously the combination of these two does make one picture a rusty red color such as the fur on a fox.

I am a big fan of DSH's other "fur" scent, Chinchilla, which I described as "a slightly animalic musk with faint wisps of crushed flower petals and thick golden honey". For me Chinchilla is cozy and the animal note very tame, so I wondered, would she "go there" with Foxy? I put my wrist to my nose and inhale deeply and the answer is yes, DSH did include "go there"! There is a faint but undeniable feral aspect to this perfume not present in Chinchilla. Don't worry, it doesn't overwhelm and you have to be really looking for it. I am assuming this was in part created by the use of two different kinds of jasmine, as well as castoreum, costus, sable fur accord and fossilized amber resin. In addition to conjuring the red fur of the creature DSH has created a fox we can imagine in a wild habitat, a little less cleanly washed than the Chinchilla perfumed creation. This is an aspect of vintage perfume that is often missing in the modern perfumes of today, and DSH is an expert at referencing this era and those notes.

Despite what I've said about the animalistic notes, after it's opening Foxy settles into a warm amber perfume with contained sillage but rather excellent longevity. This is a vintage vibe perfume that is not too overpowering for those afraid of this genre.  And as a credit to Dawn's artistry, I can indeed picture a cute red fox when I'm wearing this perfume!

Stella McCartney with  Callie, a tame fox, wearing faux fur in Vogue February 2017.

Foolproof Perfume Picks for Mother's Day

For those of us who love perfume the next best thing to buying perfumes for ourselves is buying it for someone else, so Mother's Day provides the perfect shopping opportunity. Yet all too often gifted bottles languish on the shelf unused. Some moms are easy. They have a signature scent you can replenish each year. But if you've no idea what your Mom might like but really want to share your love of scent with her, here is a semi-serious guide of what to buy your Mom depending on her likes and style. The secret in each case is to buy a fairly transparent scent that doesn't make too much of a statement, so that the odds of Mom liking it increase exponentially. 

The Classic Mom

Jackie Kennedy with her children.

The classic Mom is polished and cool. She probably set dinner tables with sterling silver cutlery and crystal dishes if she could afford it. Her manner of dress is polished, neatly styled and always totally appropriate. She made sure you visited the occasional museum in addition to Saturday matinees. Manners and respect were important in your household growing up. She gravitates toward old style classics so for her Chanel No 5 L'Eau is the perfect pick. The beautiful fizzy opening is still there but without the sharp astringency of the original. It's a lighter fresher take on the original but maintains the beautiful heart of rose and jasmine and still exudes that timeless elegance.

The Sporty Mom

Candace Parker, basketball player, Olympian.

Maybe your Mom plays tennis or golf. Maybe she's a runner or surfer. Maybe yoga is her thing, but whatever sport it is, it's a huge part of who she is. For sporty Moms I'm going to suggest something I just reviewed, MFK Aqua Celesia. This scent won't distract them from their game; it's very quiet. It's almost a skin scent but it has some tart notes of lime, mint and blackcurrant to keep it fresh.  I have a totally unproven theory that musk scents, which Aqua Celesia is, smell better and more personal when mixed with a little of your sweat. If so, then it's perfect for the active mom who glows with exertion. Regardless, it's a beautiful scent to keep her feeling fresh no matter what.

The Do-Gooder Mom

Angelina Jolie , actor and humanitarian, with her brood.

Your Mom is the first one with her hand up. School PTA president, check. Girl Scout leader, check. Local women's shelter volunteer, check. She's a rebel with a cause and the only thing that makes her happier than working is working for change. So how perfect that by wearing a perfume she can contribute in a small way to the welfare of farmers in war torn countries or one's recovering from strife. Fair trade essential oils are sourced from places like Afghanistan and Rwanda. The company behind these good deeds? The 7 Virtues. You could pick the original scent, Afghanistan Orange Blossom with uplifting notes of orange blossom, jasmine, and freesia. Farmers who used to grow poppies for the drug industry now can make more by farming neroli oil. You can also pick from Noble Rose of  Afghanistan, Middle East Peace, Patchouli of Rwanda, Vetiver of Haiti, Middle East Peace, and the new Lisa Ray Jasmine of India. The florals are realistic and pretty but these wear close to the skin. The fragrances can be ordered from the website and are also available at Lord & Taylor in the USA.

The Hip Mom

Kate Hudson, actress, fitness clothing entrepreneur.

All your friends think your Mom is cool, whether she's 40 or 80. Her manner of dress is maybe more youthful or edgy than other Moms but she always looks fabulous. She keeps up with current trends but is not afraid to follow her own style. She's open minded, embraces life,  and loves to have fun, especially with you. This Mom is not afraid to try something a little different with a slight edge. The trick is to buy something with that unique feel, but not something too extreme or out there. I have the perfect answer. It's Dame Perfumery Mate, Heliotrope & Patchouli. This perfume opens with a light mate tea note. The heliotrope gives a slight sweet touch and the patchouli is green and clean. It's my favorite "your skin but better scent". Click on the link above to read my full review. This one's a beauty.

The Trendy Mom

Victoria Beckham and brood.

Your Mom is always on point with trends. She may think she's too old to wear some of the latest style interpretations but you can be sure she knows about them. She is au courant about the latest movies, politics of the day, and the Pantone color of the year. She loves the latest thing and that's why the newest Jo Malone perfume may be the perfect gift for her. Every season Jo Malone is coming out with limited editions and new scents. The most recent release is Jo Malone Star Magnolia. Like most of Jo Malone's recent introductions, on my skin it's pretty, light, and fairly fleeting. Star Magnolia opens with a lemon and ginger note, then rapidly transitions to the magnolia and neroli. Both notes are light and come across as a white clean fragrance. While I don't love it, it's hard to imagine anyone taking offense to it. Even more interesting are the seasonal limited edition sets. They are always an interesting concept: last year it was the Herb Garden collection and this spring it is the five scents in the Bloomsbury Set. I haven't smelled any of them but I have no doubt they are charming and will fade away within an hour. Nevertheless I still can't help but be intrigued and would love it if someone gave them to me.

The Foodie Mom

Giada De Laurentiis, celebrity chef

Everyone wanted to hang out at your house because they knew there would be great food. Whether it was nourishing dinners or homemade snacks, your Mom likes to show her love through food. Her favorite program may be The Great British Baking Show. She knows the newest restaurant in town getting rave reviews and would rather walk through Williams & Sonoma than Barneys. Here are a few light and intriguing flavorful scents. Berdoues Grand Cru Vanira Moorea is a cologne strength vanilla and orange creamsicle; droolingly yummy but not too sweet. By the same company but totally different is Berdoues Grand Cru Assam of India. Pungent black Assam tea, sharp lemon, and a to-die-for bottle with colorful mini elephants make this a distinctive winner. Prada Infusion d'Amande has a creamy but transparent almond note that will have Mom sniffing her wrist non-stop.

The Traditional Mom

Florence Henderson as Carol Brady in the iconic tv show, The Brady Bunch.

Your Mom considered her primary job to be raising you and your siblings, despite everything else she might have had going on. She wants nothing but the best for you; your achievements are her successes. She loves you to bits and nothing makes her day more than hearing from you. For your special mom, treat her to the newly reintroduced Prada Les Infusions Rose. Like all the scents in Prada's Les Infusions line, it has a watercolor transparency. It is a pale pink rose scent, sprinkled with notes of mandarin, neroli, and galbanum. Sparkling and translucent, it's the perfect rose for the rose in your life.

I hope you've enjoyed my Mother's Day picks and found something worth considering.

Aqua Celestia by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The newest addition to the house of  Maison Francis Kurkdjian is Aqua Celestia, the third in the Aqua series started in 2009 with the release of Aqua Universalis, followed in 2013 by Aqua Vitae. In this newest rendering of the aqua theme Kukdjian takes the series to new heights, literally. The first two versions were rooted more firmly to the earth with their citrus and floral notes, but Aqua Celestia does seem to float, float, float up into the heavens with its ethereal air.

Kurkdjian himself describes the fragrance : "Aqua Celestia forms a seamless bond between the blue of the sky and the blue of the sea, forging a path toward absolute serenity." I find Aqua Celestia even more gentle than the other two in the series. Once the scent settles into your skin it's like breathing rarified air, an Evian version of oxygen if you will. It does indeed smell a bit heavenly.

The perfume opens with lime and mint notes. The lime here doesn't have the zing that lemons and oranges can impart in perfumery. It is a very muted citrus with just enough tart sparkle to add a gentle fizzy zest in the opening, emphasis on gentle fizz. The mint note is next to emerge but it is also contained so it feels like a suggestion of mint, just adding to the light freshness. These notes are pretty and playful but unless I sniff my arm I would have trouble identifying them, they are so tame. The white musk accord begins to creep into the freshness of these two notes, further muting their impact. A note of blackcurrant bud adds a bit of tartness, so along with the mint and lime you get a light lift and liveliness to make the musk a little more transparent.  Eventually notes of mimosa join the musk. I'm not sure I could have identified the mimosa as on my skin it merges with the musk, only occasionally peeping through to shine on its own. Although the musk begins to dominate I still catch glimpses of the mint and blackcurrant notes throughout the hours of wear.

I have never been a lover of watery scents or "clean" scents reminiscent of fresh laundry through their use of white musk. This scent however has made me reconsider these prejudices. It would be the perfect scent for someone who doesn't want to have to think about scent; who doesn't want to draw attention or make a statement with their choice of perfume but merely wants to smell nice. And more specifically to smell fresh and cleanly turned out. This perfume performs that service but has enough extra interest with its tart notes to still be interesting. Admittedly, if I was purchasing for myself and wanted a lighter scent I would gravitate more toward MFK Petit Matin (reviewed here) with its hint of luminescent pink and gold-tinged dawn skies. However, if someone were to gift me with Aqua Celestia I would be more than pleased and would wear it with abandon. I find it a very worthy addition to one of the more interesting perfume houses out there and I am sure it will find a legion of admirers.

Photo from Etsy. Perfume sample provided by Neiman Marcus.