Tuesday, January 16, 2024

Parfums Dusita Rosarine & A Journey To Flåm, Norway


Parfums Dusita launched Rosarine, their newest scent, this past May. I was very kindly sent a mini bottle and invited to the online launch. The scent was newly poured, and my memory was it being a pretty rose, rather innocent and fresh. After the launch, I proceeded into a very busy travel period and tucked the bottle into my baggage. When I eventually smelled Rosarine again, I was in for a surprise!

Dusita perfumes are released -- one per year -- and they are always an event! I decided that Rosarine would be my focus on a special part of our trip to Norway. We flew to Bergen, and from there took a train to the town of Gudvangen. It's a tiny town at the foot of the UNESCO listed Nærøyfjord, one of the most scenic fjords in Norway. From there it is a two hour cruise around the horseshoe-shaped fjord to the tiny town of Flåm. 

You have to plan ahead when going to Flåm, there are only about three hotels, not enough to house all the people who may come for the day on the ferries. When we got to Flåm we were greeted with the sight of a large cruise ship. Groan. So much for our idyllic hidden village! 

 

Happily, they loaded up their passengers and sailed away before five, and suddenly it seemed we were the only people in town!

Our hotel choice was born of necessity, it was the only room in Flåm we could find. But the Fretheim Hotel turned out to be a very fortuitous choice, considering I was doing a story on Rosarine, a rose-based perfume. It just so happened that the hotel had a gorgeous rose garden in the front lawn. Photo opportunities abounded!


 So now it was time to smell Rosarine again. Like a fine wine, Rosarine had aged in the couple of months since I last smelled it, and morphed into a lush, brilliant rose scent!

These deep red roses well represent the lushness of Rosarine. I get a very wine-like scent from the perfume. In my mind I picture harvesters stomping grapes for wine, but instead of grapes, they are stomping rose petals, and it is turning into the most rich, indulgent rose scent!

The opening of Rosarine contain a succulent raspberry note, a slightly tart lychee note, and a little bergamot. As the richness increases, the rose is joined by orris butter, jasmine sambac, wood, incense, and ambrette. The heart of the perfume is intoxicating!

After many hours Rosarine will settle into a gourmand base. Notes listed are patchouli, vetiver, cocoa, vanilla, sandalwood, and benzoin. What is amazing to me about this scent, at least on my skin, is how long the sumptuous richness of the rose permeates.

Even the next morning when I wake up, my wrist is near my nose, and the first thing I smell is the whisper of Rosarine. It's a beautiful way to wake up!

Anyone familiar with Parfums Dusita knows that Pissara Umivijani always selects one of her father's poems to represent and introduce her scents. Her father, Montri Umivijani, was an esteemed poet in Thailand. As corny as it sounds, when I first smelled the luxuriant, opulent roses in Rosarine, I thought, "this smells like a poem". Her are the words from her father that Pissara chose:

On my lips, "leaving" is love, A thousandfold from the outworn heart.

If you are a lover of roses, Rosarine is a must try. I find when I wear it, I experience the uplifting feelings of joy and optimism that rose scents can impart. 

Thank you so much to Pissara and the Dusita team for allowing me to experience this beautiful perfume! And I loved it so much, I took the opportunity to order it during Dusita's Christmas box special, and got all these extra goodies with it! And I just saw today that Dusita is having a similar generous special for Valentine's. Go to their website and have a look!


Thank you to Parfums Dusita for the sample of Rosarine. All opinions are my own. All photos are my own.
 

 

Thursday, October 26, 2023

Xeroff Coffee Break Collection

 I have been sniffing my samples from the Xeroff Coffee Break collection for about a year now, but as we finally are starting to see some fall temperatures in Texas after a horrendous summer, they are suddenly smelling especially good to me, and apropos for autumn weather.

Sergio Momo, the founder of Xeroff, travels the world, and became intrigued by the various styles of coffee served in different locations. Thus was the Coffee Break collection born, and I for one am hoping there will be future additions to the line! There has been an explosion in coffee scented fragrances in the last three or four years. Some are very realistic, and while they have a certain appeal, I find that I am more drawn to the fragrances that use coffee as a starting point, but then actually make the scent smell more like a perfume than a cup of Starbucks. That is definitely the case with the three scents currently in this collection.


Golden Dallah was the first scent in the collection to catch my attention, and I couldn't imagine that I could possibly like any of the others as much! It opens up warm, sweet and slightly sensuous, like a coffee with caramel-brown sugar stirred in.  There is smokey incense contrasting with bright, golden scents in the background. There is coffee but it gets equal billing with the warm spices. There is a gourmand element, which consists of the coffee, and a combination of cocoa and tonka, which add a hazelnut syrup to the mix. I love the balance between the gourmand element and the incense. They work well together and neither one overpowers.

Dallah is the name of the traditional coffee pot used in the Arabian peninsula. It has a distinctive shape, with a rounded base, a pinched waist, then opening wider at the top with a sharp, beak-like spout. The serving of the aromatic, bitter, and spicy coffee from the pot is a treasured ritual in many Arabian countries. Golden Dallah gives such a rich evocative smell, and makes me imagine I am in a souk, surrounded by colorful sites and clamour, while I serenely sip a flavorful coffee that is like none I've ever experienced.

Golden Moka was a new one for me, and I found it to be very different from Golden Dallah, but equally impressive and distinctive! Golden Moka smells like autumn, just not like coffee! Its opening notes remind me of a particularly good candle I had last year that was meant to simulate the smells of nuts and spicy leaves. In fact, I'd love to have a candle that smelled like Golden Moka burning in my house during October and November to keep me in the Fall mood!

Italians have used moka pots since the second world war. They are known for brewing strong and flavorful coffee, much like an expresso. My first exposure to one of these pots was when I started dating my eventual husband back in the late 1980s. He was from Australia, and these pots had become quite popular there due to all the Italian immigrants moving there after WWII, but to me it was a quaint, somewhat antiquated method of producing the morning cup of coffee. I much preferred my (also now antiquated !) plug in percolator. 

Google Image

The moka pot is valued for making aromatic coffee and bringing out nutty and even chocolate flavors from the coffee beans. This makes the nutty flavor I smell at the beginning of Golden Moka make a lot more sense. The opening notes are a collection of bright citrus smells, including blood orange, mandarin orange, and lemon. I believe these bright "wake up" fragrance hues are what accounts for the "Golden" half of the name in Golden Moka. It is a beautiful bright opening, but this is not your summer citrus scent! These citrus notes are metered with the warmth of the nutty, coffee essence, and a slight spiciness. It is honestly very delicious while not being gourmand at all. 

Cambodian Oud, Amber, and Incense deepen the scent at this point I feel like I'm in an Italian sidewalk cafe, with an aromatic coffee. Unlike the American coffee I'm used to, the coffee note is secondary to the spicy, nutty aroma. In the later life of the fragrance, it becomes more green, dry and smokey. 

I found this to be a unique and delicious take on coffee scent, and I think I prefer it to the more straightforward interpretation of a cup of Joe.

Golden Green is the newest of the Coffee Break collection. It is meant to represent the coffee beans before they are roasted. This is a very dry scent and on my skin the dominant notes are wood and vetiver. Golden Green opens with cardomom, juniper berries, pink pepper, and nutmeg. This all sounds very spicy but on my skin the fragrance skips straight to the middle notes, which are vetiver, cedar, labdanum, leather, and incense. Something about the mixture of these notes almost gives me an oud wood smell. Coffee is in the base, but don't expect to smell anything that reminds you of your morning cup. This is all about the beans! On my skin this translates to dry and almost dusty. It is fine, but I didn't find it distinctive enough to seduce me. Those who tend to like their scents more masculine or like a dry vetiver might find this very much to their taste.

My final conclusion: I love Golden Dallah for its richness and extreme longevity on my skin; I love Golden Moka for its spicy opening but I wished it lasted longer, and Golden Green is a pass for me. If you are attracted to coffee scents or spicy scents, give this collection a try!

Perfume samples were my own. Photos from Google images.

Tuesday, August 15, 2023

Goldfield & Banks Ingenious Ginger


I have always been fascinated by the unique plant life in Australia, some of it so different and unique to that found anywhere else in the world. As an American married to an Australian I make regular sojourns there, and I never tire of walking around our neighborhood and viewing wattle or eucalyptus that is not to be found in my home state. So when Goldfield & Banks perfumes came out a few years ago, introducing fragrances that highlight some of Australia's native plant life, I was excited to see what they would come up with. I've enjoyed almost all of their releases, to varying degrees. This year's newest release is Ingenious Ginger. I actually had the name wrong until I began writing this article. I had been pronouncing it as "Indigenous Ginger", which personally I think is a better name!


I lived for several years in Singapore and used to walk in their magnificent Botanic Gardens almost every day. I was always intrigued by the Ginger Garden. Although the ginger plants were beautiful, there was no discernable odor coming from their large pod-like red flowers. It seems that Goldfield & Banks owner Dimitri Weber had a love for the red torch ginger flower, but it had no distinctive smell. He and his perfumer turned to an indigenous native plant, the red back ginger, which is known as a "bush tucker" plant, meaning its berries and underground rhizome roots are all edible and have a mild ginger flavor. They used this plant to come up with a ginger flower accord.

From the beginning I liked this scent, but the more I wore it the more it has grown on me, and it is now one of my favorites from the brand. The perfume goes through several evolutions on my skin, but starts with a sparkling lemon and mandarin citrus blast, with a ginger flower accord adding a spicy, warming note. I have not smelled quite this exact combination of notes before, and in this opening phase, it's very more-ish. I keep putting my wrist to my nose to inhale the invigorating scent.

Next there are notes of magnolia, jasmine, and rose, but it is only the magnolia I can discern. The florals lend a creamy texture to the scent, making it soft and billowy. This doesn't last and then the scent deepens. I begin to get more wood and amber notes. I think anyone who enjoys woody perfumes will like this scent. Notes of patchouli, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, and amber give a rich luxurious texture that shifts between a creamy deep wood note to a spicy amber richness. In the final phase of wear, the scent once again softens and a sandalwood vanilla combination plays on my skin.

If you have smelled a ginger perfume where the ginger note is harsh or more edible, this is different. The ginger flower note is rich and spicy, but the only thing it shares with cooking ginger is the sense of warmth that ginger root can provide to a dish.

I was so intrigued by the many changeable phases of this perfume that I decided to find out more about the perfumer. It was a name I was not familiar with, but probably should be as he has a vast portfolio, Hamid Merati-Kashani. He is a German/Iranian perfumer who is based in Dubai, and he says that the Middle East and the opulence of the scents there is a big influence on the fragrances he creates. He was charged with interpreting Dimitri Weber's vision of the unscented ginger flower into reality, and smelling what he has come up with, I'm a believer that this is what this opulent red flower should smell like! 

The perfumer has given an impressionistic vision of what the Australian Torch Ginger Lily flower might smell like, and by using a native ginger plant, it is a totally believable and unique fragrance highlighting another unusual Australian plant to add to the growing Goldfield & Banks collection of fragrances.

Top photo from www.GoldfieldandBanks.com. Other photos Google images. Perfume sample is my own.

Saturday, April 29, 2023

It's National Parks Week! A Look at Caswell Massey's Yellowstone Collection

 

This past week was National Park Week in the USA, a chance to celebrate what I think is one of our country's crowing achievements and greatest attribute. A diamond in the crown of our park system is Yellowstone. A few years ago Caswell-Massey partnered with the fund raising arm of the park, Yellowstone Forever, to create a set of scents based on some of the park'sc main attractions. The tonics and oils are made using living floral technique, which recreated some of the distinctive flora scents of the park using sustainable materials, and not harming any of the rare botanical species.

Yellowstone became America's first national park on March 1 in 1872, when President Ulysses S. Grant signed the Park Protection Act into law, thus protecting over 2 million acres of wilderness. Intereresting fact, over half of the world's hydrothermal features are found at Yellowstone. By protecting these areas and making them available to all Americans, rather than allowing them to be plundered by the greedy few, I believe this to be one of the most far sighted laws for good ever enacted in our country. A family rafting trip I took over ten years ago down the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon remains one of the most epic adventures of my life, being swallowed by nature for several days until we were spit out at the end at Pearce Ferry.

Caswell Massey picked five of the top sights around Yellowstone, and sought to make scents, or tonics as they call them (I personally think this is to make them sound more old fashioned), to represent the area. They used head space technology to capture the flora, much of which is unique to Yellowstone. 

Lake

Lake Yellowstone is a high elevation lake and is surrounded by flora that can only grow at elevated, cooler temperatures. Instead of trying to capture the scent of water, Lake is a citrus floral. Shrubby Goldenweed, pictured below, is found all around this area. The scent opens with golden citrus verbena and goldenweed, then has wildflowers such as blue lupine in its heart. I found this the softest of the scents, with a refreshing floral heart, but mild, as if you're in a meadow just getting a hint of the scent. 

Mammoth 

Mammoth Hot Springs is a series of hot thermal water pools on a hill composed of travertine, within the confines of Yellowstone Park. It is one of the most unique places to visit in a park that has a lot of spectacular views. Mammoth is a woody aromatic.  Opening notes are citrus zest, with a strong undercurrent of hay grass. This hay smell is dominant to me throughout the scent, and later it is joined by cedarwood and sagebrush. 


Canyon

The canyon has the highest elevation in the park and is surrounded by clouds and mountain fresh air, and a pine forest so fragrant it is legendary. I personally wish they had chosen to make this scent a forest woody scent, but they went instead in the direction of fragrant, fresh air, and the scent is classified as a citrus aromatic. 


Photo by T.Kahler.com, photographer
The heart of the scent is full of wildflowers: blue lupine, wild crazyweed, and forget me not petals. Pine needles and juniper come in the heart of the fragrance, although they are not strong on my skin. Finally, cedarwood and tree moss round out the scent. This one stays very fresh on me, and keeps on giving that feel of fresh mountain air.

Tower Fall

Tower Fall is a stunning sight in Yellowstone. A river meanders through  pine forest, then suddenly cascades over the edge of the rocks to fall hundreds of feet! A nearby area is known for its wildlife. Grizzly bear, elk, bison, and wolves roam this landscape.


This scent is classified as a woody floral scent. I will tell you the opening notes, but I'm not sure they are necessarily what I smell. They are phlox flower, red currant, sagebrush, and mountain forget me not. Then comes juniper, pine, and mineral accord, followed by cedarwood and amber. 

What I smell in the opening is almost mildly oud-like, and it feels energetic and a bit chaotic. One can almost imagine the water's great volocity as it goes over the falls. Later I smell a calm woody scent overlayed by a mild floral that feels quiet and settled, just like the water pooling beneath the falls. As you might imagine, these are not traditional perfume scents but try to replicate some of the scents found in nature, so they are unlike anything I've worn before.

Old Faithful

Last, but certainly not least is the geyser which is synonymous with the park, Old Faithful. It is so named because it goes off more frequently and predictably than any other geysers in the park, which is around every ninety minutes. It sprays thousands of gallons of boiling water to heights as high as 180 feet. 


This is another one where the notes don't correspond with what I'm smelling. At first blast I get a sulphureous aroma, as if the geyser has just gone off, and it made me giggle. Fortunately this smell dissipates pretty quickly, and it becomes a woody aromatic, with smells that are leathery, smokey, coniferous, and mossy. 

My favorite scent of these was Lake, but they were all interesting. They come in small 15 ml bottles and are very reasonably priced. I think they may be closing these out (they were introduced in 2019) because they are currently on sale on their "last chance" site, so if you're interested, do hurry! Find a link here.






Saturday, March 25, 2023

Parfums Dusita's La Rhapsodie Noire, A Love Letter to Paris

 


As anyone who has ever visited Paris knows, wandering through the streets at night only to unexpectedly come across a lit-up cafe, buzzing with energy and the music of laughter, conversation, and tinkling glasses; it's one of the great joys of discovering the city. The visitor can feel they have discovered the cafe, the hidden place that the mob doesn't know and be drawn into its welcoming warmth and light. It was once such moonlit night when Parfums Dusita founder Pissara Umivijani was inspired to create her newest perfume, La Rhapsodie Noire, a love letter to Paris.

Let me set the scene, in Pissara's own words. 

One night I was crossing the Pont-Neuf., listening to "Rhapsody In Blue". Suddenly my imagination was fueled by images and sensations of The City of Light in the 1920s. I decided to create a nocturnal, vibrant fragrance dedicated to Paris of Les Annees Folles.

I was present in November when Pissara debuted La Rhapsodie Noire in a Zoom meeting. She reiterated how the Gershwin song, Rhapsody In Blue, served as an inspirational launching point as she strolled past the cafes and heard the song. She smelled the dark expresso coffees as well as drinks of cognac, rum, or whiskey. Mingled in was the smoke of a Havana cigar. The elegant crowds were wearing scent, and she smelled the classic fougère colognes of the men, as well as more floral and feminine scents on the women. All of this went into the inspiration for creating the new perfume. 

Pissara Umivijani, as many of you know, is a perfumer who grew up in Thailand, but now makes her home in Paris. Years ago she retraced the footsteps of her father, a poet laureate in Thailand, who left his native home and moved to Paris. I've lived half of my adult life in Asia, and I can smell the influence of Pissara's Thailand roots in her fragrances, admittedly some (La Douceur De Siam) more than others (Issara, Amancara). Some of that influence is subtle. For example in Splendiris, not in any way an Asian scent, there are still hints of the gentleness and quiet beauty of her country's cultural heritage. But with La Rhapsodie Noire, Ms. Umivijani has created a fragrance that is one hundred percent French and is a tribute to her adopted home of Paris. 


La Rhapsodie Noire is such a delicious scent, it's impossible to keep your wrist away from your nose for a quick inhale. It is a gourmand scent, but this is a Dusita, so it's well done and subtle.  A lot of gourmand fragrances go for the easy win, with a big rush of sugar and ultra sweet gourmand notes. La Rhapsodie Noire is infinitely more refined than this. Picture a delicate macaroon with its crisp and air-like sugar crust next to an America chocolate chip cookie. They are both delicious, but the French dessert appears delicate, light, and refined next to its American counterpart, and so it is with the gourmand aspects of La Rhapsodie Noire.

Pissara wants to set a scene of 1920s Paris, when the city was the center of art and cultural creativity. Picture the movie Midnight In Paris, with scenes of Ernest Hemingway smoking a cigar in the bar while chatting with Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald. and jazz music playing in the background. The perfume creates this world from its opening notes of coffee and rum, and the faint wisp of cigar smoke in the background. It smells  like coffee but also boozy. 

Pissara's idea was to create the scent in the fougère style. Traditionally this meant a citrus top note and then a sharp and aromatic heart, usually with lavender or geranium notes. Pissara upended this tradition by making a gourmand fougère perfume, with a sweet coffee opening, which then transitions smoothly to aromatic mid notes of clary sage and lavender. These notes come across a fresh and I get tinges of hay or wheat, so that it feels like there is a croissant or baked dessert accompanying the evening coffee. Notes of mimosa, broom, and jasmin sambac hover in the background, blended into a soft floral melange. Base notes of patchouli, vetiver, and oakmoss support the fougère structure. Then base notes of sandalwood, tonka bean, and vanilla support the more gourmand legs of the fragrance. 

Although I love the coffee and rum opening, I actually have a couple of other favorite times in the development of the perfume. I sometimes drink an Earl Grey tea with lavender, and there are moments as we move from the top to the heart of the fragrance that I get a beautiful blending of the coffee and lavender notes, and it reminds me slightly of my tea, although this is much more yummy and luxurious combination. I also love the dry down which smells like polished, burnished wood, but still infused with the gourmand scent of the coffee. This is a warm and beautiful perfume and could fulfill anyone's coffee perfume fantasy.

I took part in the launch of La Rhapsodie Noire way back in November, but diversions such as my daughter's wedding, Christmas, then a trip to Australia intervened. This was a perfume I wanted to live in for a while before I wrote a review, so here we are four months later. Although this makes a warm and cozy scent for winter, I think it will also bloom beautifully in warmer weather, which will emphasize the fresher middle notes and the warm woods in the base. 

Pissara is always inspired by her father's poetry. Here is a line from the poem she chose for La Rhapsodie Noire.

I am dancing to love in the subconscious of

every human being.  Montri Umivijani

Pissara Umivijani and Parfums Dusita have once again given perfume lovers a beautiful fragrance to contemplate!

If you are curious about the music that inspired Pissara, here it a link.





Top photo from Google image. Coffee image my own. Other images from Dusita website. Perfume was provided by Parfums Dusita. Opinions are my own.

Tuesday, March 7, 2023

Cochine Fragrance, A Touch of Vietnam

 

I first became aware of Cochine scented home products when I lived in Singapore. I walked in the Botanic Gardens almost every day, and their gift shop carried the line. I was intrigued by the scents and did a bit of research. I found that Kate Crofton-Atkins, who was living at that time in Saigon (or Ho Chi Minh) had been inspired by her Vietnamese surroundings, with its remnants of French design flair, and fragrant blooms perfuming the streets. Cochine was the result.

Ms. Crofton-Atkins was a trailing spouse at the time, as was I. She was beguiled by the beautiful scents that perfumed the air in her new home in Vietnam, as I was in Singapore. I was only inspired to create a blog to record my wonder. She, on the other hand, created a business that has now spread internationally in a little over ten years and is going from strength to strength. She also produced three children during this time (with her husband's help, of course) which makes this even more of a feat!

Cochine's original line consisted of candles, then diffusers were added. I was attracted to the beautiful scents which replicated some of the fragrances I came across in my daily walk through the Botanic Gardens. The story goes that Kate was inspired by the jasmine blooming on her street. If they were anything like the ones I experienced in Singapore, the blooms would intensify at night as the sun set, and at certain times their hypnotic scent could make one swoon! This is the brand's stated purpose:

"Inspired by the romance of travel and long summer evenings in the tropics, our unique fragrances capture the very essence of romantic escapism."

After I moved away from Singapore, I loved that I could recreate some of my scent memories with Cochine's products. They specialize in using scented plants grown in Vietnam, and Ms. Crofton-Atkins likes to combine scent notes. Some of the home product line fragrances are Vietnamese Rose & Delentii, White Jasmine & Gardenia, and my two favorites, Water Hyacinth & Lime, and Agarwood & Amber. 

A couple of years ago, Cochine came out with Eau de Parfums of some of their favorite fragrances. I was keen to try these and immediately ordered the discovery set of five scents. I was pleased at how the perfumes take me back to those happy years I lived in Asia, and are beautiful scents in their own right.

Cochine's discovery set, looking down on the lobby of the Park Hyatt Ho Chi Minh.

White Jasmine & Gardenia was the original scent that started Cochine, and jasmine was the flower that inspired Kate to create the brand. I honestly can't tell you how many bottles of jasmine and/or gardenia perfume I have, as they are two of my favorite scents. This is a feminine and light interpretation of the two flowers, which is representive of how scents are worn in Asia. You will not come across someone wearing a loud, heavy perfume in the Asian heat. Light and effervescent perfumes are the desired go to, and this perfume is in that style. For those who love these jasmine and gardenia but find some perfumes too heavy or indolic, this would be a good one to try.

Frangipani & Neroli is another light and uplifting version in perfume form of the frangipani flowers you will see while walking around Saigon. This scent is light, balmy, and a little lemony from the neroli. It is an easy to wear, light-hearted summer scent for when the temperature rises. 

A sample from the discovery kit, and frangipani at a spa.

Vanille & Tabac Noir is perhaps the most obviously romantic of the scents. It is tobacco flower that gives the distinctive tobacco note to the fragrance. Along with vanilla, patchouli, cardomom, nutmeg, and basil, this scent is unabashedly lush and romantic. There is something about this scent that gives me retro vibes of a perfume I wore long ago, but I haven't been able to identify it. To me the tobacco flower gives it an evening wear vibe, and it is a little old fashioned in the best way.

Tuberose & Wild Fig is the most unusual of the scents to my nose, and perhaps the most exciting. It is a green, green fig, tempered with a slight bit of sweetness from the tuberose. This is an unusual combinationand one I'm not sure I've ever encountered before. The initial spray is green freshness. The fig is green and still on the vine. There is no sweetness in the fig itself and it is definitely not a ripe smell. Notes are fig, vetiver, and cedarwood, with just a little tuberose, it is made to represent a sun drenched evening. I found that some days the tuberose note came out more on my skin, and then some days I could hardly detect it. This scent is definitely about the fig note. I also have a few fig perfumes in my collection, and this one seems different from any others I have.

A display of Cochine products at L'Usine, a home goods store in Ho Chi Minh, District 2. 

Tuberose Absolute & Sandalwood is the newest perfume in the collection. Perhaps Cochine wanted a more representative tuberose scent, and in any case, this is quite different from Tuberose & Wild Fig. Initially after spraying I smell a creamy, soft tuberose, very lush and beautiful. After some time the sandalwood comes into play and the tuberose starts to recede into the background. It is as if you've entered a temple in Southern India made of ancient stone with sandalwood carvings to the deities. It is steamy and warm inside the temple walls, but soft breezes carry the gentle scent of the tuberose flowers blooming outside into the confines of the temple. This is a soft, meditative scent. I think this might be my favorite from the collection. 

I'm in Australia at the moment and summer is waning. For those of you in the Northern Hemisphere who are awaiting summer, these could be scents to get that summer vacation feeling going!

Top photo from Cochine.com website. All other photos are my own. Samples are my own.


Saturday, January 28, 2023

Puredistance M V2Q, A New Bond For A New Era

 


Puredistance M, the original, was the third perfume introduced by the Dutch luxury line Puredistance, way back in 2010, and their first fragrance specifically marketed to men. Founder Jan Ewoud Vos is big on supplying his perfumers with story boards that capture his vision for the new scents, then letting them run with it, and granting access to the finest of ingredients with no limitations. Vos's vision for M was the James Bond image and the Aston Martin automobile Bond was famed for driving, especially its plush leather seats. The first M created by Roja Dove was a big success, but in late 2021 Roja Perfumes notified Puredistance they would no longer be able to supply the formula for M due to IFRA regulations. It would have to be reformulated.

Vos took the somewhat gutsy route of deciding not to imitate the original formula, but to come up with a new scent, similar in nature but modernized and more emotive yet still powerful for today's man. To do this he turned to a perfumer he trusts and has used several times to bring his creations to life, French perfumer Antoine Lie. I must admit that when I first smelled the new scent, I was a bit startled at how very different it was!

To explain, the first M, at least to me, seemed to be modeled after Sean Connery, all debonair style and sartorial elegance. The scent was definitely refined, and to me, the leather note spoke of a comfy wingback in a library of a stately home, where Bond would relax with a cigar after returning from an adventure. It had leather, but also a warm cozy spiciness.

The new M V2Q really captures the Daniel Craig version of Bond. When I first spray it on, it immediately conjures feelings of intrigue and a little danger. These are notes that I don't commonly smell, and there is an edginess to the scent. Yes, it is a modernized version of a leather scent, but it also captures a bit of Craig's Bond character's ability to outmaneuver and surprise his enemies. Because I don't know where this scent is going!


From the Puredistnace.com website.

If I list the notes for you, here goes: orange blossom, pink pepper, lavender, jasmine sambac, cypriol, pine tar, cinnamon, tonka, cedar, patchouli, vanilla, and labdanum; I promise you, there is no way you will guess what this smells like from these notes. The florals are not very visible to me. I definitely smell the cypriol and pine tar. I think these may be the notes that give me that "off balanced" feeling, but I like it! The leather note is green, and I would guess that the jasmine sambac, which can smell quite green, may have been craftily used by the perfumer here to enhance that effect. Also, the molecule used to give that leather note has a green element. This note reminds me of another favorite and high-end perfume, Dusita Le Sillage Blanc. In both, the green is bitter, a little pungent, and a bit dangerous!

The longer the scent is on my skin, the softer and more plush the leather note beomes. However, this is not a strong leather scent, but to me is more of an interpretation of leather. The green woodiness with subtle spice is equally important in this scent. Like all Puredistance perfumes, it has a high concentration of oils and it wears on the skin literally for hours and hours! I would say the longer you wear it the more beautiful it becomes.

Just like Daniel Craig was a very different James Bond than we'd seen before, M V2Q is a very different fragrance from M. I think Antoine Lie did an excellent job of capturing the excitement, danger, and more worldly aspects of this Bond interpretation in the new scent. 

M V2Q was introduced in September 2022. Thank you to Puredistance for providing me with a sample, and my opinions are my own. Apologies for the long absence here. I had two daughters marry in 2022, so family life took precedence, but I'm happy to be back!