A new launch by Puredistance Master Perfumes is always a cause for anticipation. Unlike so many niche perfumers that flood the market with new product, Puredistance has deliberately adopted a "less is more" philosophy. Puredistance 1 was introduced in 2007, and Rubikona will be just the eleventh perfume introduced in the thirteen year period since then. Each perfume stands on its own merit as a unique and individual scent. Each breaks new ground and offers Puredistance customers a new and distinct choice.
Puredistance founder Jan Ewoud Vos relies on just a few master perfumers to bring his inspiration and ideas to fragrant reality, and for Rubikona he turned to Cécile Zarokian, who also created Sheiduna. I know from a past interview I did with Mr. Vos that he takes great care in creating the names that will represent his perfumes, and he likes forming a word out of descriptive parts. The brief for this newest perfume started with the word "Ruby", to respresent the deep and warm red of the precious stones, and the word "Icon", to represent timeless beauty and style.
When perfumes are centered around a color, as several in the Puredistance line are, one can't help but draw conclusions in advance as to how the color will be represented in fragrance. With Rubikona's pictured inspirations of a ruby necklace and the vibrant color red, I expected something fiery, maybe even spicy, big and bold. I should have learned after Puredistance Gold, reviewed here, that Mr. Vos would have his own vision, and it would be led by class and restraint. With Gold I expected shiny and bright, and I discovered shimmer and mystery. So I don't know why I expected pyrotechnics or the red cape of the matador waved in front of the bull. Instead it is the red of love and comfort. At the same time it represents the color in a blood red ruby, revealing both shaded depths and glints of sparkling light. Rubikona the perfume juggles that contrast of light and dark with a scent that has depth, yet also lightness and loft.
First, the notes:
Top notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Mandarin
Middle notes: Rose, Iris, Ylang, Clove, Orange Blossom, Creamy notes
Base notes: Parchouli, Cedarwood, Vanilla, Solar Notes, Musk
So the big question is how does Rubikona smell, at least on my skin? The opening is a full creamy floral, but I smell the citrus notes too, a tart grapefruit and pungent mandarin notes. These citrus notes add a quick moment of lightness, but then disappear into the big bouquet of florals. The floral bouquet is blended in such a way that no one flower is distinct. When thinking of a "red" perfume and seeing that it has rose as a note, one might think they have the scent all figured out. For me this bouquet of flowers does smell "red". Just like you can identify a white bouquet in perfume, this one feels red, but don't expect to have a distinct smell of rose, or any of the other florals for that matter. In a style I find to be distinctly French in perfumery, everything is well blended. In addition to the rose, there is iris, ylang, and orange blossom. I always love the combination of rose and orange blossom which translates to a lovely opulence and richness. Both bring out a creaminess and sensuality in the other. The first time I wore Rubikona, I thought I could pick out carnation in the scent, but when I look at the list of notes I see clove. Carnation can have clove aspects, so I guess this is what made me think it was there. Carnation as a note always gives scents a chic and dressy feel, at least to my nose. The iris is indistinct to me, but certainly adds to the richness of the bouquet that is Rubikona.
During the blooming of all these beautiful florals there is one aspect of the scent that is a standout, and it is the sumptuous, billowy cream notes.
The creamy notes give an extravagant plushness to the scent, but at the same time give it a comforting aura. The creaminess is not too sweet, just soft, as if you've sunk down into a pile of billowy pillows. The ylang, and also vanilla, reinforce the scent's creamy nature.
Sink into the comforting softness! www.briannadamra.tubmlr.com
Rubikona carries on with the floral creamy notes, but patchouli, which was slightly evident in the beginning, becomes more pronounced. Rose and patchouli are an often done pairing, but here the combination is more delicate than is sometimes the case. As a patchouli lover, I find its presence brings the flowers and the light creamy notes back down to earth.
The red and the earth! www.rover.ebay.com
The patchouli is subtle to me, just adding a slight earthy depth. Patchouli can sometimes take over a scent, but in Rubikona we have the florals, lashings of cream, soft vanilla, and also gauzy musk. Without the grounding of patchouli and cedarwood in the base, the florals, vanilla, and cream might have felt too sweet and the scent too edible. Instead, there is a balance, a yin and yang that translates to an extremely beautiful but also very wearable perfume. While to me this perfume leans more feminine I am a firm believer in anyone can wear anything they like, and the patchouli does perhaps make this more man friendly.
Twenty-four hours later I can still smell Rubikona on my wrists, not surprising since it is a 28% extrait. It smell like what could be memories of a beautiful night— a box seat at the opera, a night at the ballet, a dinner out with friends; all the sort of events that have been missed in this solemn year of the pandemic. But as appropriate as Rubikona would be to grace a grand event, it is also warm and comforting, like sinking into the plushest, softest bed ever or being held in the embrace of a loved one. It manages to do a difficult thing, really. It is equally at home as a chic accessory or as simply providing casual comfort, a true definition of effortless chic.
As a final thought, the beautiful red flacon would make a stunning Christmas gift, or Valentines, if you plan ahead. Puredistance packaging is exquisite and substantial, and each finishing bow is hand tied by the staff and family at the brand's Amsterdam office.
By now you may have read other reviewer's opinions of Rubikona. They will all comment on the exclusivity and the exceptionalism of the scents from the Puredistance house. Some perfume houses hype themselves as exclusive and a luxury brand, and they tack a high price tag on their scents as if to prove this. Jan Ewoud Vos set out to create a truly exclusive brand and cater to that select group of customers who appreciate fine craftmanship and quality. In an interview Mr. Vos told me that perhaps his favorite customers are those that can't necessarily buy every new release, but save for one that really speaks to their heart. I respect the way that Puredistance deliberates over each release, perfecting it and adding it like a jewel in the proverbial crown....this time a ruby! Mr. Vos is proud to use master perfumers, quality ingredients, and high levels of perfume oils in his fragrances, never less than 25%, all the way up to 48% found in Aenotus. I know I risk sounding like a sales pitch, but do yourself a favor and buy the discovery set if you haven't sampled this brand. As a perfume lover, it is one of the best gifts out there you can give yourself.
In the literature I received from Puredistance, I believe Jan Ewoud Vos says it best and it's worth repeating here:
"The world is facing dark and uncertain times. The past six months have been very challenging for most of us. But I look back with pride....For this new perfume we selected a deep red colour that evokes soothing emotions of love and warmth in a luxurious and perhaps good old-fashioned way...I really believe that truly beautiful experiences and emotions can help us weather the storm better. So whatever will happen next, we will keep on trying to create timeless beauty."
I believe Rubikona could be an antidote to the year 2020, offering both comfort and beauty as a balm for the soul.
I met Mr. Vos a few years ago at an event in Singapore when I lived there, and since then he has generously shared with me his new creations. I would like to share some of his generosity with you. I have two spray samples of Rubikona to give away to readers. Please leave a comment as to what intrigues you about this perfume, or if you have another favorite Puredistance perfume. Draw closes November 7. Draw is limited to USA readers only. Apologies, but postal issues! Please either check back with comments, or private message me on facebook as to where I can reach you if you win.
All photos not identified are from the Puredistance website. Top photo of rubies, www.astleyclarke.com. Thank you to Puredistance for allowing me to try Rubikona.
