Puredistance Papilio, The Butterfly

 

I took a little break from blogging. I wasn't feeling inspired by what I was smelling, life was busy and a bit chaotic, and I took to wearing perfumes in the "easy, breezy" category that smell nice but don't require much notice from the wearer. Recently, though, I felt those stirrings coming back that have made me eager to explore new scents, and to write about those that touch or inspire me. So I finally reached for my sample of Puredistance Papilio which came to me during this off time.

I had the pleasure of meeting Jan Ewoud Vos several years ago when I lived in Singapore. Not only was I impressed with the quality of his fragrances, which numbered around seven at the time, but I liked his absolute commitment to producing a quality product that would withstand time. To do this, the creation of a new Puredistance perfume starts to germinate with an idea in the very creative mind of JEV, and then goes on to a storyboard. Picking a perfumer is key, and I can only imagine how exciting it must be to be picked as a creator of a Puredistance perfume, knowing that cost of materials takes a back burner and quality and execution of the scent are all important considerations.

Nathalie Feisthauer had completed work on Puredistance 12, and JEV decided to have her bring his vision of Papilio to life. I can understand why. When I wrote about Puredistance 12 here I spoke of how its subtle beauty and quiet presence stood out to me as a departure for the line, which in the past has not backed away from making a bold statement. Butterflies are ethereal, fluttery things, so when expressing that in perfume, one would look for a light touch. Perhaps this delicacy is Ms. Feisthauer's signature, at least in regard to Puredistance creations.

What are my impressions? Knowing that it is about butterflies and their cycle of life, I let me mind go with what I smelled. Fragrantica lists this as a floral musky scent, which are a favorite category of mine. When I first smell Papilio I get a woody, musky scent, with just a touch of light in the form of bergamot. The cumbersome caterpillar has transformed into a chrysalis. It hangs by a slender thread, waiting for the transformation into a beautiful free being which can fly through the skies. The smell is quiet, musky, cocoon-like if you will! On my skin there was no dramatic moment of transformation as the figurative butterfly transformed from its pupa state to a fluttering winged creature. Instead there was a light emergence of florals, unveiling their scent as if carried on the wind, the overall effect a gossamer lightness and transparency.

The notes listed in the heart of the fragrance are gentle and quiet. They are magnolia, orris, heliotrope, carrot, lily of the valley, and peach. The notes seem to speak more of the ethereal nature of the butterfly, with its delicate wings and floaty, airy movements. Some other butterfly themed perfumes tend to gravitate to using notes of the nectar it consumes, with strong white florals or honeyed notes. That is not the case here. Ms. Feistheuer has chosen to zero in on the butterfly in all its stages. It is always delicate, understated, but a airy, beautiful and transparent scent.

I found Papilio a gorgeous scent, but it hasn't replaced my love for some of the heavier hitters in the Puredistance family. Warszawa will always be my number one, and I love Antonia and Gold, in particular. But there is a place for quietness and understatement, and Papilio will cloak the fortunate wearer in their own gossamer wings of flight

Thank you to Puredistance for the sample of Papilio. The photo is from their website.