Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Berdoues Collection Cologne Grand Cru, Part Three - Somei Yoshino

Berdoues Somei Yoshino is the brand's interpretation of the spectacular spring awakening of the cherry blossom trees in Japan. Somei Yoshino is the most prolific variety and the official tree of Tokyo, featuring a five-petaled flower with slightly-pink white blossoms. The perfumer Angelique Leporini said, "When I created Somei Yoshino, I wanted to express this unique annual spectacle orchestrated by Japan's cherry trees when they come out in blossom." I didn't have high expectations for this one, as my only familiarity with cherry blossom scents were versions from Jo Malone and L'Occitane, which while nice enough did not leave a lasting impression. Berdoues has used the shiso leaf to give a unique spin to their version of Japan's annual cherry tree show.

The cologne opens with a fresh, airy green scent but there is a fruitiness adding a touch of sweetness. The green is soft and reminds me of a candle I've purchased in "Bamboo" fragrance which had a calming, contemplative air. Shiso is a member of the mint family but mint's very distinctive smell is in no way present. Here shiso offers a green and woody note. The perfume initially stays green and slightly fruity. Jasmine is the second component of this scent but it is barely detectable. Normally jasmine likes to make her presence known and can take over a perfume but here the jasmine is as tightly restrained as an obi belt on a geisha's silk kimono. It is what is giving a slight, virginal floral note to temper the green note of the shiso. Jasmine can provide sugary, fruity, and opulent notes to perfumes in addition to its distinctive smell, and the perfumer has taken full advantage of this here. Indonesian patchouli provides the final of the three notes and provides a soft green musky basenote.

Out of all the Grand Crus colognes this was the one I was the least interested in trying, but now there is the very distinct possibility that I'll desire my own bottle of Somei Yoshino when winter has passed and spring is imminent. It is a really lovely cologne, and by using "lovely" I don't mean to brand it as feminine. All the Berdoues Grand Crus are totally unisex. 

Read more reviews on this collection at Part OnePart Two. Part Four, and Part Five.

Photo from website. Samples were my own purchase.


Rustee45 said...

I agree about the L'Occitane cherry blossom fragrance, it was a pale imitation. I have not tried the Jo Malone version. Cherry blossom scent is just so divine. Adding to my ever-lengthening 'want list". :)

Cynthia said...

Rustee 45, I smelled the Jo Malone years ago when it first came out and can't remember the exact smell, but just remember thinking immediately, "Meh, I don't need that." I've never smelled real cherry blossoms so not sure how this one compares, but I thought it was nice.