Maria McElroy, founder and proprietress of Aroma M Perfumes, was one of the first niche perfumers I came across over ten years ago, in an era when niche was rare, new, and inventive. Maria is a true Japanophile, living and studying there for seven years. It was during her time in Japan that she came across a peony garden while visiting Ueno Park, and she was delighted by both the flower's beauty and its gentle rose-like scent. Decades later she has made a tribute to the peony, called botan in Japan.
If you follow Maria on social media you may have seen some of her travel photos with her handsome chef hubby, as she refers to her husband. She is possibly the most stylish traveler out there. You could easily put her photos in a 1960 photo album, when travel was for the stylish and sophisticated, and she would look right at home.
Maria McElroy, Barcelona 2018.
My previous experience with perfumes featuring the peony note is that they are bright young things, pink and pretty. Geisha Botan is a totally different peony. It is, I would imagine, no accident that Maria introduced Geisha Botan prior to autumn because it certainly fits into the season nicely. Readjust your idea of peony to something more like the flowers pictured below, deep and rich with muted wine-like colors.
Geisha Botan doesn't try to be a straight up representation of peony scent. Thanks to Aroma M's generosity I was able to test both the eau de perfume and the oil versions. I will be honest; normally I am not a fan of oil-based perfumes as often I can smell the scent of the oil carrier. But with Aroma M perfumes and oils, somehow Maria is able to imbue the perfumes with the DNA of her brand. Even though her various scents smell very different you are always aware of the Japanese/Asian vibe that is at the heart of this brand. Full disclosure, I own several of her oil roller balls: Geisha Rouge, Geisha Pink, Geisha Green, and Geisha Blue. I love both the beauty of the protective tubes wrapped in the decorative Yuzen papers as well as the convenience of the size which is easy to throw in a purse or pocket.
When I first try Geisha Botan the EDP goes on bright and I can smell a honeyed peony, or more correctly I should say, a honeyed floral. Peonies don't survive the Texas heat so I've never actually smelled the true flower. The oil initially opens more quietly. I smell a muted version of the same notes, but it is softer and moodier. Opening notes of peony and rose are listed, and I am surprised I don't pick out an actual rose scent as usually it is very evident to me. I am assuming this is purposeful, as rose is being used to help simulate peony's scent. As the oil begins to warm on my skin I feel like I almost smell a trail of tender smoke. There was a similar trick to the wood note in Geisha Vanilla Hinoki, which I reviewed here; there is no smoke note listed in Geisha Botan, and in any case it is a fleeting and momentary impression.
Aroma M lists heart notes of sandalwood, vanilla, velvet woods and base notes of forest lichen, oakmoss, and musk. The vanilla makes a quick presence on my skin. I love the vanilla notes that Maria coaxes from her perfumes. Whereas the beautiful vanilla in Vanilla Hinoki was green and a bit smoky, this vanilla manages to be succulent while completely avoiding that sugar fix present in some perfumes that overload on the sweet note. This vanilla is influenced by creamy sandalwood, and whatever other wood notes are added to the perfume. It feels snugly yet sophisticated at the same time. This scent is unisex, veering neither masculine or feminine.
After my first wear I was all prepared to say that while both versions are beautiful, I preferred the oil for the way it blossomed on my skin throughout the whole day, its presence seeming to amp up the longer it was on my skin. I put it on in the morning and it was still with me when I went to sleep at night. But skin is a funny thing. The next time I tested, the EDP version seemed to define each transition from note to note more clearly than the oil. The oil hummed softly on my right wrist while the EDP was twirling pirouettes on the left. So maybe it just comes down to which version you prefer to wear. Some like to spray a cloud of scent; others may prefer the personal nature and convenience of the roller balls. Either way, I think you'll be pleased.
Maria references Japanese irezumi (tatooing) with Geisha Botan. The peony has been a popular motif throughout the ages as it is so special in Japanese culture. With Geisha Botan you can reference this trend of wearing peonies on the skin without going all the way into inking the body.
Aroma M packaging is always spot on in keeping on brand and Maria has a gift for picking the perfect Yuzen papers, which she uses to wrap the tube of her oil rollers or illustrate the bottles. You get a pretty good idea of the mood and style of the perfume inside the bottle by studying the beautiful Yuzen paper and Geisha Botan is no exception.
From www.aromam.com website.
As the perfume settles into my skin, and that is what happens with Aroma M perfumes--they seem to become a part of you during the time you are wearing-- I feel wrapped in a cocoon of gentle beauty and warm comfort. This perfume doesn't try to be a replica of a peony. Geisha Botan uses the peony which has a sacred history in both Japan and China, and puts the unique and always original Aroma M stamp on its creation. Although it would be lovely in any season, as I tested Geisha Botan on a rainy, cool weekend it was the perfect fit to transition into a new season.
Thank you to Maria McElroy for providing me with samples. My opinions are my own.
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