www.LasVegasMagazine.com. Joey Bishop, Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr., and Dean Martin.
I love learning new bits of trivia or history, and Sharkskin was such a vehicle. When I first heard the name Sharkskin I thought in a very linear path to a grey silvery shark. While Dawn is referencing the animal with her new perfume, she was also influenced by sharkskin suits which were embraced by the Ratpack in the 60s and have enjoyed a recent renaissance in style. The slim, sleek-fitting suit, perfectly illustrated in the recent television series Mad Men, have a shiny sheen to the fabric which is supposed to channel visions of a shark skin.
www.AustralianGeographic.com
When making Sharkskin, Dawn was channeling the cool sheen of the fabric used to make sharkskin suits, the silvery sleek skin of the shark, as well as the feel of cool water against the shark's skin. It is meant to feel cool and sleek on the skin, and as refreshing as a dive into cool ocean water.
When I tested Sharkskin I found that Dawn has come up with a cooling, refreshing antidote for the steamy heat of summer. She calls it a "retro-modern fougere" in the tradition of a cologne. A fougere historically is composed of three main notes: a sweet floral, often lavender; an oak moss woody scent, and coumarin with its hay-like smell. The opening is a mixture of fresh citrus and floral, and the use of mock orange fulfills both these categories. It has the sparkle of Tahitian Lime, backed by other citrus notes such as lemon, bergamot, neroli and petitgrain. The lime opening is distinct but then I smell a slight touch of the soapy freshness that neroli and petitgrain can give. Quickly notes of mock orange sweeten the citrus. If you've ever smelled a mock orange, like orange tree blossoms it has a scent of sweet floral freshness and innocence. I have found that on my international flights they often put colognes containing orange blossom in the bathrooms for a fresh pick-me-up when the last shower is a distant memory. This aspect of the perfume represents the coolness of the sharkskin, be it a fabric suit or the leathery skin of the predatory fish.
Eventually fern-like notes present, lending a sophistication and suaveness to Sharkskin. Dawn uses the traditional fougere ingredient of oakmoss to facilitate this transition, but there is also ambergris, Australian sandalwood, civet, and musk. There is the feeling of freshly ironed clothes and I find the mock orange provides the freshness but these fern notes give the impression of hot iron touching fabric, making it crease less and smooth. At this point a slight lavender note becomes apparent in the cologne. The coumarin can provide many nuances to the scent besides the new mown hay note with which it is most identified. Coumurin can give herbaceous aspects to a scent and sometimes has an undertone of powder and vanilla. Although I would never call Sharkskin a powdery scent, it does provide that cooling freshness that a dusting of talc can provide to sweaty skin.
www.DSHPerfumes.com
DSH Perfumes Sharkskin is a fragrant armour against the humid, sweaty assault of summer temperatures. Whether you picture it as an uber trendy fitted suit or the metallic shimmer of sharkskin, the cologne keeps you feeling crisp and clean. It is very unisex and easy to wear. For comparison purposes only, in spirit this reminds me of Penhaligon's Savoy Steam or Balenciaga L'Essence, both of which I have reviewed here. The notes are different but they contain a similar clean, cooling, fresh pressed aura.
DSH Perfumes Heirloom Collection is a new invention this year to give a venue for the many creative ideas percolating in Dawn's mind. The designs will be sold for two months, then once it is gone, it's gone, with one exception. If you have bought one of the heirloom bottles you always have the opportunity to order more from Dawn, as long as she can source the ingredients. You can also subscribe to the heirloom subscription service if you don't want to miss out on any of the introductions.
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